Really enjoyed reading this little write up (at lee-reobertson.co.uk) on the contest at Welcombe last week, almost as much as realising it was Ed Fr%^&y who was the badass dropping in (at the Ho the week before), in the below sequence. When I watched it from the beach, there was a chorus of 'no way' as it appeared so utterly shameless. It was only on closer inspection that I realised it was Ed. In Ed's defense this was a totally genuine bad call, and he hadn't looked left before paddling in....hmmmm. That said, Ed felt he must have known the guy as he managed to hear a comment about his career in banking.

This coming week, I have some long overdue time off. So as it's a mixed forecast, I have been reflecting on next additions to the shed. Seem to have come by the way of a wood burner, so in the coming weeks will be putting it in here and hiding out on days that I can escape the noise of three small children. Pipe is optional, home brew already in the cask, and guitar essential.

Balls bigger than mine, and someone definitely not afraid to take a beating. Parky finally made it in, only to be confronted by this on literally a brand new board from Diplock.  Incidentally this was a replacement for the board he broke previously on his maiden voyage at the same spot. 

Today,  the swell came back to town.

Happy 5th birthday little smurf !

Haven't seen this place light up for a few months now, and when it does it always scares me. Often surfed at first light with a fire lit on shore to see where to paddle back on heavy fog days. Glad I had the excuse of work and a cold.

Have been stuck in all day nursing a cold, reading emails, and trying to progress work. By 4' o clock Bear and I had had enough and we ventured out to Backyards to see how the reef was working. Only two sharing a wide open range of peaks, whilst a leading international authority in hydrography huddled in a deck chair, collating data.

As a promise to RU today, I agreed I would post up my honest thoughts on my new CC slider 9'4.
Conditions were just about perfect, although carrying such a large board and in volant, it did feel heavy (combined with Hector's mini simmons, under the other arm). Rich explained that for him, boards like this fell in to two categories. Either hyped beyond all recognition, and not quite sure what the fuss was about (usually sold on within a month or so), or just amazing and best intentions to keep for the rest of your life. Despite a wobbly start, the board just powered out through the small waves. Its flatness allowing so much speed and grace in the paddle, and the only way you knew you were flying was by looking at landmarks. The board moved effortlessly, despite its size, and getting to the nose was so easy. Pulling cheater fives, and still sitting in the pocket of a crumbling slack wave was not something I had experienced at the beach before. It just seemed to go and go. Based on today's test flight, and a tandem ride with my 6 year old, we both agreed the board is a keeper.

Bear and I got out for first light, and ended up having to shelter in the gorse, as the squalls pushed through. Trapped for about 10 minutes, and thinking how AL must be getting on in LA didn't help, so I ended up scrolling through my emails waiting for the storm to pass.  With great surprise I got an email on a follow up post about Canadian Surfer Pete Devries, from Harry at Sitka surf out in B.C. Vancouver Island takes cold water surfing to a whole new level, and despite its beauty I don't miss the kelp beds or the drift wood tree trunks (AKA dead heads) that can littler the line up. Strangely Harry originally hails from Braunton but has wound up in Vancouver working for a very interesting and growing surf label.

Tricks Of The Trade - Part Two - The Pocket Knife from Sitka on Vimeo.

Its been the third pre-work session in  a row, and this little swell with strong offshores, has been so good. Finisterre, like some fabled cornish Aunt called to tell me some new woollen goodies were on their way, and they had been enjoying some of the cleanest conditions for a long while. But what I am really delighted by is the Bing 5'8 mini simmons. It has definitely been life/surf changing in terms of its speed and manoeuvre-ability, and I just feel I surf so much better already. It seems to pull power out of waves that I can only attribute to the Gephart fins, and their direct affect on drive. The board was flying today, often making sections before turning back into the foam ball to bounce off and attempt to cut back or even reverse.  

Got in for a paddle with Hector, and he certainly found it big enough. Stuck him on the 8'0 Spence hull but its flat outline wasn't working, in what was probably head high for him. As a result he has requested the red Fisher Viking mini simmons, to be used at all times. Kind of nice he prefers to ride my board, and I've agreed its his, to hang in his room going forward.

Caught up with the talented Mr Terry (when not travellling the world for National Geographic, he drinks copious amounts of wine), and hid in the wilds of Chagford with Bear and Hector.  We all had a great time, managed to get out on the moor, and hustle back in time to find that the beach was still flat. Had hoped that somehow a change of scene would somehow lift the surf jinx. With this in mind, I  also owe a big thank you to DT, for the new Chris Christenson 9'4 Slider coming my way. 

Seems like so long ago, that I had time to take pictures, go for a surf and somehow manage a day job. Solid Autumn seriously needed, so that I can justify some long deserved days off work. 

Collecting things, falling from trees.