Friday, 24 January 2014

Yesterday was great fun through the squalls, the only issue being you had to trail a hand through the gybes just to warm them up in the slightly less freezing sea.

Tuesday, 21 January 2014

I promised myself (and the rest of the family) that I would stay out the water before we go skiing this year. However this little wave has me back each day with the bear; always searching for more. Today was classic yet again.

Monday, 20 January 2014

Have been following some great Patagonia photographers/adventurers via instagram. Last nights clear winter skies inspired me to try to replicate some of the amazing images I have seen. It might not be the desert with zero light pollution, but it is North Devon and its 30 seconds worth of open shutter. Photographing on the roof of the house made me realise how many nights like this must go unnoticed as  the great masses tune in to the lull of the television.

Sunday, 19 January 2014

Caught up with old friend Richard last night, who eased me out of my alcohol ban with a couple of great bottles of red. So the last thing on my mind was getting up too early to catch the morning glass. However true to form, Will rolled up at 'way too early o'clock'  and talked me in to a paddle. Really glad for friends like this, as I had no expectations and it turned into the most glorious morning. 

Tuesday, 14 January 2014

I have taken more beatings, caught less waves and surfed this spot more in the last 14 days than I have in two years. Finally I have come to terms with its reputation and can honestly say I love it. The power is completely addictive and whilst this is my closest thing to a local spot, its taken a long time to come to understand it. Tides, winds, swell and gatekeepers make it so much more than just another wave you can drop into. Happy new year, 14 days sober and counting.

Saturday, 11 January 2014

Don't usually publish multiple pictures of the same day, but today was special. Just to nip out back and score some quiet waves is a growing hobby, but it felt better than usual for some reason. I think the blue skies really helped and the wind going offshore might have played a factor too. Almost feels like spring is round the corner.

Monday, 6 January 2014

As Code red is issued for the swell in the Atlantic and Hurricane Hercules pushes through, it seems like the waves today were a fitting end to the run of consistent ferocity that December has seen. Local knowledge and a degree of adventure has produced some amazing spots that I never thought or knew possible. Happy New year and long may this continue.