Tuesday 8 December 2009

The stoke


I love surfing for what it brings to people on a cold, wet and miserable day at the start of December. When words like 'interval' and 'bouy reading' ignite smiles, and distant eyes filled of hope. Today is just one such day when despite the weather, something really good is happening for those that can be bothered.

PS - It's so nice to see Lundy again. It feels like ages since we last saw this steadfast little island, and I can barely believe its still there after the storm action over the last month.

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