Showing posts with label but surfing helps. Show all posts
Showing posts with label but surfing helps. Show all posts

Tuesday, 14 January 2014


I have taken more beatings, caught less waves and surfed this spot more in the last 14 days than I have in two years. Finally I have come to terms with its reputation and can honestly say I love it. The power is completely addictive and whilst this is my closest thing to a local spot, its taken a long time to come to understand it. Tides, winds, swell and gatekeepers make it so much more than just another wave you can drop into. Happy new year, 14 days sober and counting.