Thursday, 12 December 2013

Mired in controversy, I have had some of my most enjoyable surfs here, and it still baffles me in its unpredictability. After surfing here the last three days, you might have been lulled into a false sense of security. Just when you feel you have a handle on it, conditions build or change quite dramatically, not to mention if the wrong crew are here. Tales of diving knifes, slashed tires, fan belts cut and plenty of on the water aggression is still a reality. That said, sometimes the risk of such a spot is also the lure, although for many it still remains most revered if not respected.

1 comment:

  1. I know the spot you mean and the reputation it has though I'm always confused this type of '80s-style protection of surf spots. Especially in the internet age. I get that you don't want it to become crowded but protecting the spot is only really justified if you never surf anywhere else. Then you might say you're protecting your home. But if you surf in other countries or are a guest at someone else's spot then it's just hypocritical.

    The devil in me wants to expose it all so that the secret is crushed but I never will because that's just stooping down to their level.