Dark foreboding water and I only lasted about ten minutes in the mountainous seas. Despite a neap tide with two and a half hours before high, the water was already on the ridge and a heavy backwash was kicking up. It was neither particulary safe nor enjoyable, so I quickly got out to ensure no one else made the same mistake. Sometimes its best just to return to the safety of your family, a warm house and as much chocolate as possible.

Huge tidal surges, gale force winds and even the odd bit of sunshine. After almost 2 weeks of unrelenting storms and wave bouy readings continually in double figures, its time to put the kit away; at least for a few days.

Even in all the mad conditions, there are always places that the swell is small enough and the wind in the right direction for a quiet little session.

Had my yearly catch up with Will the Guru, and have to say he leaves me inspired as ever. His light and positivity seems to transcend everything, and massive thank you for all your energy. Directly after dinner I booked up our yearly ski trip, and the prospect of travelling over the six weeks of summer has left us bubbling with ideas.

Mired in controversy, I have had some of my most enjoyable surfs here, and it still baffles me in its unpredictability. After surfing here the last three days, you might have been lulled into a false sense of security. Just when you feel you have a handle on it, conditions build or change quite dramatically, not to mention if the wrong crew are here. Tales of diving knifes, slashed tires, fan belts cut and plenty of on the water aggression is still a reality. That said, sometimes the risk of such a spot is also the lure, although for many it still remains most revered if not respected.

Finally shaken off the cold, to get back in the water and on my own home turf too. No one other than my old reliable friend; The Bear to keep me company. His natural affinity to want to save people, meant he paddled out to the breaking sections, and once he realised I was staying he barked and barked and then paddled back in.

If you haven't seen the Moonrise Kingdom then you will miss the reference, but its Wes Anderson movies like this that make life seem that little bit more eclectic and interesting. Things that are so very dear to me, when I am trying to convalesce in a house full of children, and deadlines for work looming.