Thursday, 24 May 2012

Despite the last few nights getting very little sleep, I wasn't prepared to let this swell slip by. My planning has been close to military precision and I have got up each morning at five to get the pre-work session in. Both days have been good, although a little better this evening. I can't really gauge if the swell was actually better, only that seeing so many familiar faces made it feel like home. Sharing the odd wave too was also a real treat, and on this rare occasion even Luke let me drop in, as he raced me down the line. 

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