Saw this the other day, and its been mulling around in my head since.
Friday, 25 May 2012
Surfed with a good friend today, who I am sadly loosing to the call of California. Perfect sliding in the late afternoon sun, and catching up on all the news, but most of all it was kind of a relief that he still loved here. He appreciated the green rolling hills of Devon, the total lack of surfers in the line up, and even our temperate climate. Some things you just take for granted, but when it is sunny and there is swell, it just tastes all the sweeter.
Thursday, 24 May 2012
Despite the last few nights getting very little sleep, I wasn't prepared to let this swell slip by. My planning has been close to military precision and I have got up each morning at five to get the pre-work session in. Both days have been good, although a little better this evening. I can't really gauge if the swell was actually better, only that seeing so many familiar faces made it feel like home. Sharing the odd wave too was also a real treat, and on this rare occasion even Luke let me drop in, as he raced me down the line.
Wednesday, 16 May 2012
No wind for too long, then two of the best evening sessions I have had since time began. I think the light had something to do with the enjoyment factor. Blue skies and sailing till the last moments of light, as the sun melted into the horizon. Some days I love this place more than anywhere else in the world.
Monday, 14 May 2012
Update - the bad boy flew !! Just great in 2-3 foot and offshore, but then probably most things are : )
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