Tuesday, 26 January 2010
Really great to paddle out today on what I was expecting to be somewhere around 4-5 foot. Instead the interval meant an easy paddle out and small but powerful sets pushed through. The rides I shared today were so much fun, that it was like learning to surf all over again. I just really can't even begin to explain what it meant to ride with someone kind enough to share a wave and yet tear it to pieces at the same time. Thank you Justin and all the others that have helped me paddle in to such beautiful places. Whilst they have been keen to share, the threat of violence has never been far away to those uninvited. Whether this is dished out by the wave, or the dark sentinels waiting quietly in the lanes.