Sunday, 1 November 2009


With my head full of cold, and a fairly painful chest infection I sat (in the warmth of my car) and watched everyone out charging. The three light weight amigos made it way out back, and I could really appreciate the difference in the size of the swell. However as they tacked into position for the marching lines, the margin for error was greatly reduced by an enormous rock stack sat down wind, and the reef now fully exposed. I winced everytime someone fell in, as I knew that within seconds, they could be drifting into an extremely dangerous situation. I blasted off quite a few shots only to realise I had left the film behind. This was the only shot I managed to score as a result (of the inside) and I guess that Spot Y will remain a mystery for a little longer.

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