Tuesday, 27 October 2009

No limits vs Know your limits

The morning brought a great swell with which to test myself on the coast a little closer to home. As a first session, it felt heavy and the offshore winds started to hollow out the faces making it so completely different to the beach. I definitely felt on the edge of my limits, as the currents swirled around malevolent looking rocks, and the reef was continually in the back of my mind.

However after an hour or so the wind continued to pick up, and as my paddling dwindled the potential for a sail was ever improving. By the time we got back to the beach, Ed revealed that conditions were 'interesting' and despite rigging up, with what seemed to be the wrong board, I watched with fear as Ian, Ed and Dan snuck out through the gaps in the sets. As my free time was coming to a close, I sank back behind the camera and recorded some action. Dan definitely scored wave of the day, although when the sets pushed through they all looked intimidating.


  1. F@@@@@g awesome!!!!!Stew and I sailed spot X which was fun but nothing like that!!!!!The early bird doesn't get the worm cos when I scoped Saunton at 8.00 there was 11 kts.Should have waited maybe. Still we all paddled into some heavy coombs at 3.00pm and lived to tell many tales over beers.
    Very envious....Dan's wave is superb! Love it. Pix good too of course