I don't really like big wave surfing. In fact at my age, stage and priorities in life, I don't think it will ever be an option. But I am totally fascinated by it, particularly when I see videos like this.

Got down to the beach a little too late yesterday, only to see Dan catching some beautiful set waves in stunning blue skies and off shores. By the time I got home, Hector and I just checked out the back, and I asked him to score the sets coming through. I think this this was his favourite wave, as he thrust all ten fingers skyward. 

This morning I was definitely chomping at the bit to reclaim my home spot again. Swell was small but I was fairly confident it would work. That was, until I realised, with the fog visibility was less than 50 meters. I couldn't even see the wave, standing directly in front on the beach. When I finally went in, the fog had lifted to almost seeing something break, so Henry and I paddled out back. Small but still fun, we scored a quick hour, but getting home through the mist was not so easy. Again we were totally disoriented, got washed up 200 meters down the beach, and then started walking in the total wrong direction. Eventually we found the car.

The Aurora borealis returned again, but not so vibrant this evening. I can only really describe it like a sunset at the wrong time in the wrong direction, and continually moving, changing, almost pulsing.  

Keep your eyes open again tonight. Northern lights potentially making a second appearance. Last night was really quite magical.

West North Westerly 21-26knots
1-2 ft and blue blue skies
4.5 m Ezzy WP 2
RRD Hardcore Wave 75ltr
Good times

Its been an amazing week, of leaving the car, and catching surprisingly mellow sessions on my home patch. I don't know when I have laughed and smiled so much and just feel exhausted from all the paddling. Massive thank you to Sharky, who I met last weekend. A few key words really lifted my confidence this week, and places I have struggled to come to terms with, have really opened up for my surfing. 

Managed to get out for three very different sessions over the past twenty four hours, and surfed as many different boards. Probably my most favourite shape, but not quite the conditions for it, was this 6'1 quad fish, which still seemed to fly in the early morning sunshine.   

Just before the sea fog rolled in, and the tide dropped out, a couple guys braved the unusual swell. Sizeable but somehow not really rideable.

Sometimes I think we get all the rain, and the North Devon weather really sucks. Then little clips like this  make me recollect VI, and I realise it isn't all that bad.

Rainy day at drop box from GotSurf.ca on Vimeo.

Sitka Surfboards Welcomes Peter Devries from Sitka on Vimeo.

Have been waiting a few years, to be able to share Gerald the giraffe. Still standing tall after being hunted over a century ago by someone terribly posh. Exeter Museum finally re-opened much to the delight of our little folk.

There are those who like to share and those who don't, and then there's people like JS, who will just about give you everything just to see a friend smile. Thank you for a great session today, I promise to stay in the water for longer next time. But it was fun even in minus one.

The Tales of Bergmann

In the back woods of Canada lurk some old acquaintances who continue to inspire me, albeit from the wrong side of the desk. Dave and Lee seemed to excel at every sport they touched, and it seems they continue in this quiet spot far from the crowds of Whistler and the better known ski hills.

Rohr from Lee Lau on Vimeo.

A few days of telemarking was enough to put my legs in to spasms of pain. Managed to still ski loads, but resorted to a new pair of K2 twin tips. just to keep up with our little ones.

The darkness of the water and the impact of sunlight during the dark winter days can never be appreciated enough. I will really miss the water over the coming week, but the lure of mountains is too great.

The forecast was too good, despite it being only 1 degree. Sadly I was the only one out for the first half hour, but it was so completely worth it. I literally basked in the sun, and revelled in the beauty of the cold winter morning. Picking off as many waves as I could possibly paddle for, I let the GoPro do the rest.

First light, sliding on the mini simmons. Good times despite the cold. (photo courtesy of John M of ToffeeZebra.com)

Nothing much to say, other than blue skies, small swell and easterly winds making a remarkably groomed swell. Next few days look very promising.

Justin and Alex paddled out, only to quickly disappear into the gloom. So it was only the pounding noise that confirmed it as well over head.

If the Scandinavians have over a hundred different words for snow types, surely North Devon could easily boast twice as many, for rain or mud.