I promised myself (and the rest of the family) that I would stay out the water before we go skiing this year. However this little wave has me back each day with the bear; always searching for more. Today was classic yet again.

Have been following some great Patagonia photographers/adventurers via instagram. Last nights clear winter skies inspired me to try to replicate some of the amazing images I have seen. It might not be the desert with zero light pollution, but it is North Devon and its 30 seconds worth of open shutter. Photographing on the roof of the house made me realise how many nights like this must go unnoticed as  the great masses tune in to the lull of the television.

Caught up with old friend Richard last night, who eased me out of my alcohol ban with a couple of great bottles of red. So the last thing on my mind was getting up too early to catch the morning glass. However true to form, Will rolled up at 'way too early o'clock'  and talked me in to a paddle. Really glad for friends like this, as I had no expectations and it turned into the most glorious morning. 

I have taken more beatings, caught less waves and surfed this spot more in the last 14 days than I have in two years. Finally I have come to terms with its reputation and can honestly say I love it. The power is completely addictive and whilst this is my closest thing to a local spot, its taken a long time to come to understand it. Tides, winds, swell and gatekeepers make it so much more than just another wave you can drop into. Happy new year, 14 days sober and counting.

Don't usually publish multiple pictures of the same day, but today was special. Just to nip out back and score some quiet waves is a growing hobby, but it felt better than usual for some reason. I think the blue skies really helped and the wind going offshore might have played a factor too. Almost feels like spring is round the corner.

As Code red is issued for the swell in the Atlantic and Hurricane Hercules pushes through, it seems like the waves today were a fitting end to the run of consistent ferocity that December has seen. Local knowledge and a degree of adventure has produced some amazing spots that I never thought or knew possible. Happy New year and long may this continue.  

Dark foreboding water and I only lasted about ten minutes in the mountainous seas. Despite a neap tide with two and a half hours before high, the water was already on the ridge and a heavy backwash was kicking up. It was neither particulary safe nor enjoyable, so I quickly got out to ensure no one else made the same mistake. Sometimes its best just to return to the safety of your family, a warm house and as much chocolate as possible.

Huge tidal surges, gale force winds and even the odd bit of sunshine. After almost 2 weeks of unrelenting storms and wave bouy readings continually in double figures, its time to put the kit away; at least for a few days.

Even in all the mad conditions, there are always places that the swell is small enough and the wind in the right direction for a quiet little session.

Had my yearly catch up with Will the Guru, and have to say he leaves me inspired as ever. His light and positivity seems to transcend everything, and massive thank you for all your energy. Directly after dinner I booked up our yearly ski trip, and the prospect of travelling over the six weeks of summer has left us bubbling with ideas.

Mired in controversy, I have had some of my most enjoyable surfs here, and it still baffles me in its unpredictability. After surfing here the last three days, you might have been lulled into a false sense of security. Just when you feel you have a handle on it, conditions build or change quite dramatically, not to mention if the wrong crew are here. Tales of diving knifes, slashed tires, fan belts cut and plenty of on the water aggression is still a reality. That said, sometimes the risk of such a spot is also the lure, although for many it still remains most revered if not respected.

Finally shaken off the cold, to get back in the water and on my own home turf too. No one other than my old reliable friend; The Bear to keep me company. His natural affinity to want to save people, meant he paddled out to the breaking sections, and once he realised I was staying he barked and barked and then paddled back in.

If you haven't seen the Moonrise Kingdom then you will miss the reference, but its Wes Anderson movies like this that make life seem that little bit more eclectic and interesting. Things that are so very dear to me, when I am trying to convalesce in a house full of children, and deadlines for work looming.

Had to share this as its such a great little short, and it's getting me psyched about a special little place we  surf tomorrow. Cold easterlies, and so much blue sky has made the run of small clean swell all that much sweeter.

After last week and a forecast of winter coming, I really had no expectation of yet more angry winds on their way. Instead mid week, we got bone chilling/arm wrenching Force 7+ in pretty amazing conditions. 

Its been another week of wind and swell and yet more sessions at GS, and to complete our run of luck, perfectly clean shoulder high swell over the weekend. Sunday morning was literally all to myself, and I got to spend some  quality time on a new Hydrodynamica Fourke (courtesy of Rich Unsworth), so big thank you. I first took this board out a couple of weeks back, and it felt like there was too much volume at least for the wave size that day. But in the head high and under category, this is great fun. Like so many of the mini simmons shapes, this is fast in slack conditions, and it really makes an average surf so much more. 

WHEN THE SEA CALLS from Ant Sullivan on Vimeo.

Bumped in to Ant Sullivan on Tuesday who sent me this link to his movie. I usually only bump into Ant in the water, hence hard little/no idea of his talents elsewhere. Enjoy the clip. 

Its been pretty inspiring lately seeing so many loops (forwards and backwards), on almost every session over the last few weeks. Dan seems to have somehow got the perfect stall going on, Ian's clear control and precision, the Sauntonians as always high and fast, whilst Tim's are so smooth you forget the complexity. Having had a run of broken boards, and my fair share of bad luck,  I haven't been so hungry for needless impact. That was however until the RRD quads loosened up my sailing. Feeling comfortable is a necessity, and things feel like they are starting to flow again. Of course, endless wind and back to back sailing also helps, but nothing more than a few words spoken by a friend seemed to be the biggest lift. Many thanks today for your momentary pearls of wisdom, they took me just that bit closer to landing/sailing out, as well as putting a big smile back on my face.

Quit work, drop out and surf more; Will Brawn you are an inspiration !

It's an odd sensation gybing in perfectly flat water on the inside and then picking endless peeling lefts, off the point. Fully powered on a 4.5 and sailing such a beautifully remote peak was definitely made better by sharing with a couple of friends. Thank you so much for today, I think its time to start sailing here a lot more.

Its been a pretty amazing week, endless surf/windsurf and depending on your work/life commitments, you could pick and choose what time/conditions you wanted to get out in.  This shot of Luke (taken by Glyn Brackenbury) gives you some idea of the ferocity of yesterdays condtions, which I reckon was the strongest wind/rain over the past ten days. Luckily both today and yesterday delivered some blue sky moments amidst all the rain, with today's early sunday (wind) worship feeling quite genteel with a WSW force 5/6. Hopefully the next 24 hours will see some respite, and then Tuesday a trip to our hallowed point break to sample the returning strong westerlies.  Massive thanks to Ivan for introducing Roy Riley to the windsurfing fraternity, I am sure Matt and Nick will be forever in debt for Tuesday's shot in the Times. 

The early blast just before the storm really kicked in. This was mellow compared to how the afternoon unfolded; 70mph plus with local opinion claiming the biggest seas they had ever seen (Fairway Buoy - 21ft).