Sunday, 9 December 2012

Ventured in from the wilds to take our children to see Peter Pan at the Old Vic on Saturday. Amazing to see so many people, and our children wide eyed at all the bustle. Probably the highlight of the trip, and certainly some of the finest acoustic talent I have heard in a while - The Bower Brothers composed and performed their original score for the play. At times the music with the performance moved so many to tears, have a listen and see if you can spot the link to Bonobo, L Garnier, Fila Brazilia and so many  other talented artists they have worked with.

Saturday, 8 December 2012


Cold, from the north, and windier than we've seen in a while.

Saturday, 24 November 2012


It was hard to figure if you would be wetter on land in the pouring rain, or submerged in the water today. It was wet, really wet,  but clean offshores and a nice little swell, helped put a smile on this dark and dismal day. 

Thursday, 15 November 2012


Blue skies, The Bing, off shores and a perfect little wave made me late for work today. I am sorry but it was worth it !

Monday, 12 November 2012

On our Sunday afternoon ramble, Hector and I stumbled across what appeared to be a multiple homicide scene. Perhaps simple sport for a stoat or weasel, however my Beatrix Potter skewed childhood couldn't stop me from worrying about how Mr and Mrs. Mouse would be dealing with their loss of kin.


Monday, 5 November 2012


Went for an early morning swim and planned to be in work for 7.30 to miss the traffic. However post swim I glimpsed at the webcam and opted for the early morning push. Scored a totally empty beach and some shoulder to head high clean sections in 5 degrees !

Sunday, 4 November 2012


Offshores cleaned up a really fun swell and it was great to surf alongside Randall and Jake from If6was9 and even spot surf royalty like Thomas Bexon all the way from Australia. Apparently word has got out, that the fair waves of Westward are well worth the trip ; )

Friday, 2 November 2012

Deep in middle England, roving the hillside with three small children, looking for hobbits and goblins.

Thursday, 1 November 2012

Last of the bramble harvest, and not really the greatest year for fruit. Winter storms are officially here, and I can hear the rain cascading down the sides of the house. Must be time to go windsurfing !


Wednesday, 31 October 2012

Really enjoyed reading this little write up (at lee-reobertson.co.uk) on the contest at Welcombe last week, almost as much as realising it was Ed Fr%^&y who was the badass dropping in (at the Ho the week before), in the below sequence. When I watched it from the beach, there was a chorus of 'no way' as it appeared so utterly shameless. It was only on closer inspection that I realised it was Ed. In Ed's defense this was a totally genuine bad call, and he hadn't looked left before paddling in....hmmmm. That said, Ed felt he must have known the guy as he managed to hear a comment about his career in banking.





Sunday, 28 October 2012

This coming week, I have some long overdue time off. So as it's a mixed forecast, I have been reflecting on next additions to the shed. Seem to have come by the way of a wood burner, so in the coming weeks will be putting it in here and hiding out on days that I can escape the noise of three small children. Pipe is optional, home brew already in the cask, and guitar essential.

Tuesday, 23 October 2012


Balls bigger than mine, and someone definitely not afraid to take a beating. Parky finally made it in, only to be confronted by this on literally a brand new board from Diplock.  Incidentally this was a replacement for the board he broke previously on his maiden voyage at the same spot. 

Saturday, 20 October 2012

Wednesday, 17 October 2012


Haven't seen this place light up for a few months now, and when it does it always scares me. Often surfed at first light with a fire lit on shore to see where to paddle back on heavy fog days. Glad I had the excuse of work and a cold.

Tuesday, 16 October 2012


Have been stuck in all day nursing a cold, reading emails, and trying to progress work. By 4' o clock Bear and I had had enough and we ventured out to Backyards to see how the reef was working. Only two sharing a wide open range of peaks, whilst a leading international authority in hydrography huddled in a deck chair, collating data.

Sunday, 14 October 2012


As a promise to RU today, I agreed I would post up my honest thoughts on my new CC slider 9'4.
Conditions were just about perfect, although carrying such a large board and in volant, it did feel heavy (combined with Hector's mini simmons, under the other arm). Rich explained that for him, boards like this fell in to two categories. Either hyped beyond all recognition, and not quite sure what the fuss was about (usually sold on within a month or so), or just amazing and best intentions to keep for the rest of your life. Despite a wobbly start, the board just powered out through the small waves. Its flatness allowing so much speed and grace in the paddle, and the only way you knew you were flying was by looking at landmarks. The board moved effortlessly, despite its size, and getting to the nose was so easy. Pulling cheater fives, and still sitting in the pocket of a crumbling slack wave was not something I had experienced at the beach before. It just seemed to go and go. Based on today's test flight, and a tandem ride with my 6 year old, we both agreed the board is a keeper.

Saturday, 13 October 2012

Bear and I got out for first light, and ended up having to shelter in the gorse, as the squalls pushed through. Trapped for about 10 minutes, and thinking how AL must be getting on in LA didn't help, so I ended up scrolling through my emails waiting for the storm to pass.  With great surprise I got an email on a follow up post about Canadian Surfer Pete Devries, from Harry at Sitka surf out in B.C. Vancouver Island takes cold water surfing to a whole new level, and despite its beauty I don't miss the kelp beds or the drift wood tree trunks (AKA dead heads) that can littler the line up. Strangely Harry originally hails from Braunton but has wound up in Vancouver working for a very interesting and growing surf label.

Tricks Of The Trade - Part Two - The Pocket Knife from Sitka on Vimeo.

Wednesday, 10 October 2012

Its been the third pre-work session in  a row, and this little swell with strong offshores, has been so good. Finisterre, like some fabled cornish Aunt called to tell me some new woollen goodies were on their way, and they had been enjoying some of the cleanest conditions for a long while. But what I am really delighted by is the Bing 5'8 mini simmons. It has definitely been life/surf changing in terms of its speed and manoeuvre-ability, and I just feel I surf so much better already. It seems to pull power out of waves that I can only attribute to the Gephart fins, and their direct affect on drive. The board was flying today, often making sections before turning back into the foam ball to bounce off and attempt to cut back or even reverse.  

Sunday, 7 October 2012


Got in for a paddle with Hector, and he certainly found it big enough. Stuck him on the 8'0 Spence hull but its flat outline wasn't working, in what was probably head high for him. As a result he has requested the red Fisher Viking mini simmons, to be used at all times. Kind of nice he prefers to ride my board, and I've agreed its his, to hang in his room going forward.