Just under a week to go, and fingers crossed we might have a new addition to the family. Managed to still play Dad despite stealing off for a lovely session in the blue skies and off shores. Wouldn't want to be anywhere else in the world today.

Glastonbury Tor Time-Lapse from John Morgan on Vimeo.

Quality from the talented Mr Morgan.

22 celcius (early 70's F) in the backyard today, so I capitalised on all the things I was meant to do in the week, but had postponed because of surfing. After endless menial chores including 2 hours on the mower, I snuck out with a glass of wine, under the guise of letting bear out in the back field. Fortunately I had the camera, but what I wasn't expecting was the wave height to jump to triple on the pushing tide. It looked perfect, but my hands were tied and I drowned my sorrows over the heat of the BBQ.

Well at last I managed to break away from the mini simmons in small surf. The glass on keel fin has decided to detach itself from my rather lack lustre approach to laminating. So I was stuck with making the fish work today, which turned out to be a massive boost. The fish is really intended for this kind of surf, but I always like the extra lift from the mini simmons. Also the Rasta keel fins I have been using are a little loose, and to date I have been running some trailer fins as per the shapers suggestion. So armed with just the fish and the rasta keel fins, I was surprised at the ability to catch almost everything I went for, and the maneouvre-ability of the board. I am sure the sun helped as the wind was swinging side shore, and I couldn't help but think this is our summer.

It amazes me how undersubscribed our place called home is. Small but glassy and only one other out.

Tonight was special, and still light to just about 7.30 . Can't wait for what the early morning will bring, and might just be a touch late for work.

Don't seem to be getting the free time I once had, but killer running right now, deep into the sunsets. The change is fine though, it's stagnation and routine, I can't really handle. What did make me chuckle tonight is my long standing favourite blog site finally stole one of my images, and I feel honoured. Sadly this ain't no Tourmaline, this here is North Devon. Kind of makes me proud to have taken the original picture, and to think its not US West Coast(as quoted) its just little old England.

I don't really like big wave surfing. In fact at my age, stage and priorities in life, I don't think it will ever be an option. But I am totally fascinated by it, particularly when I see videos like this.

Got down to the beach a little too late yesterday, only to see Dan catching some beautiful set waves in stunning blue skies and off shores. By the time I got home, Hector and I just checked out the back, and I asked him to score the sets coming through. I think this this was his favourite wave, as he thrust all ten fingers skyward. 

This morning I was definitely chomping at the bit to reclaim my home spot again. Swell was small but I was fairly confident it would work. That was, until I realised, with the fog visibility was less than 50 meters. I couldn't even see the wave, standing directly in front on the beach. When I finally went in, the fog had lifted to almost seeing something break, so Henry and I paddled out back. Small but still fun, we scored a quick hour, but getting home through the mist was not so easy. Again we were totally disoriented, got washed up 200 meters down the beach, and then started walking in the total wrong direction. Eventually we found the car.

The Aurora borealis returned again, but not so vibrant this evening. I can only really describe it like a sunset at the wrong time in the wrong direction, and continually moving, changing, almost pulsing.  

Keep your eyes open again tonight. Northern lights potentially making a second appearance. Last night was really quite magical.

West North Westerly 21-26knots
1-2 ft and blue blue skies
4.5 m Ezzy WP 2
RRD Hardcore Wave 75ltr
Good times

Its been an amazing week, of leaving the car, and catching surprisingly mellow sessions on my home patch. I don't know when I have laughed and smiled so much and just feel exhausted from all the paddling. Massive thank you to Sharky, who I met last weekend. A few key words really lifted my confidence this week, and places I have struggled to come to terms with, have really opened up for my surfing. 

Managed to get out for three very different sessions over the past twenty four hours, and surfed as many different boards. Probably my most favourite shape, but not quite the conditions for it, was this 6'1 quad fish, which still seemed to fly in the early morning sunshine.   

Just before the sea fog rolled in, and the tide dropped out, a couple guys braved the unusual swell. Sizeable but somehow not really rideable.

Sometimes I think we get all the rain, and the North Devon weather really sucks. Then little clips like this  make me recollect VI, and I realise it isn't all that bad.

Rainy day at drop box from GotSurf.ca on Vimeo.

Sitka Surfboards Welcomes Peter Devries from Sitka on Vimeo.

Have been waiting a few years, to be able to share Gerald the giraffe. Still standing tall after being hunted over a century ago by someone terribly posh. Exeter Museum finally re-opened much to the delight of our little folk.

There are those who like to share and those who don't, and then there's people like JS, who will just about give you everything just to see a friend smile. Thank you for a great session today, I promise to stay in the water for longer next time. But it was fun even in minus one.

The Tales of Bergmann

In the back woods of Canada lurk some old acquaintances who continue to inspire me, albeit from the wrong side of the desk. Dave and Lee seemed to excel at every sport they touched, and it seems they continue in this quiet spot far from the crowds of Whistler and the better known ski hills.

Rohr from Lee Lau on Vimeo.