Managed to get out for three very different sessions over the past twenty four hours, and surfed as many different boards. Probably my most favourite shape, but not quite the conditions for it, was this 6'1 quad fish, which still seemed to fly in the early morning sunshine.   

Just before the sea fog rolled in, and the tide dropped out, a couple guys braved the unusual swell. Sizeable but somehow not really rideable.

Sometimes I think we get all the rain, and the North Devon weather really sucks. Then little clips like this  make me recollect VI, and I realise it isn't all that bad.

Rainy day at drop box from GotSurf.ca on Vimeo.

Sitka Surfboards Welcomes Peter Devries from Sitka on Vimeo.

Have been waiting a few years, to be able to share Gerald the giraffe. Still standing tall after being hunted over a century ago by someone terribly posh. Exeter Museum finally re-opened much to the delight of our little folk.

There are those who like to share and those who don't, and then there's people like JS, who will just about give you everything just to see a friend smile. Thank you for a great session today, I promise to stay in the water for longer next time. But it was fun even in minus one.

The Tales of Bergmann

In the back woods of Canada lurk some old acquaintances who continue to inspire me, albeit from the wrong side of the desk. Dave and Lee seemed to excel at every sport they touched, and it seems they continue in this quiet spot far from the crowds of Whistler and the better known ski hills.

Rohr from Lee Lau on Vimeo.

A few days of telemarking was enough to put my legs in to spasms of pain. Managed to still ski loads, but resorted to a new pair of K2 twin tips. just to keep up with our little ones.

The darkness of the water and the impact of sunlight during the dark winter days can never be appreciated enough. I will really miss the water over the coming week, but the lure of mountains is too great.

The forecast was too good, despite it being only 1 degree. Sadly I was the only one out for the first half hour, but it was so completely worth it. I literally basked in the sun, and revelled in the beauty of the cold winter morning. Picking off as many waves as I could possibly paddle for, I let the GoPro do the rest.

First light, sliding on the mini simmons. Good times despite the cold. (photo courtesy of John M of ToffeeZebra.com)

Nothing much to say, other than blue skies, small swell and easterly winds making a remarkably groomed swell. Next few days look very promising.

Justin and Alex paddled out, only to quickly disappear into the gloom. So it was only the pounding noise that confirmed it as well over head.

If the Scandinavians have over a hundred different words for snow types, surely North Devon could easily boast twice as many, for rain or mud.

Losten Stolen or Ripped Off.

Please please please keep your eyes open, for my RRD Wave Freestyle 91 windsurf board. The board disappeared from my truck on my way back from the beach today. I would like to think it bounced out the back, but it was strapped and I am not sure how this could have happened. Sadly I stopped into to see a friend on the corner of Chope road, and on my return it was gone. Kind of gutted, particularly after missing a week of solid wind.

UPDATE

Thanks to everyone who has been in touch. The board was collected by Brian, a kind hearted local resident at Westward Ho! , to whom I am so grateful. His take on the whole scenario was one of karma, and wouldn't accept a reward, in fact it was hard enough to leave a bottle of wine. But not only was it great to get the board back, I got to see his collection of some of the finest vintage californian surfboards, I have ever seen. Thank you.

For the brief moments that it howled, before it squawled up to Force 7 gusting 8, Tim, Jim and myself just about had the start of what looked to be a good session. Sadly the wind wasn't going to stay consistent. Any size sail from 3metre up to 7 would have at times been useable. However for that brief moment it was flying and despite missing the guys at spot X, and the two shandy's ( who called me first :) then decided not to go out, it was still worth getting wet. Great forecast continues for rest of week (wind wise).

Like an omen of good fortune BP gave me the wind reading at 30+ knots and then told me he wasn't going to go out as he didn't have a small enough fin. As a bonafide living legend, with enough windsurf stories of his exploits to write a book on, I wasn't going to give him too hard a time if he didn't want to sail.
So, sheepishly I unfurled the 4.0 for what was going to be a solo session, and just after three quarters of an hour, my arms and legs had had enough. In fact, 45 mins of constant battle with winds and a large storm swell, had me wishing for the warmth of the truck, and to settle back behind the lens and film someone else. Just as I started to head in Paul and Andy arrived to pick up where I left off, what a day !

Wind has howled all through the night and actually picked up this am. Definitely smallest sails today...4.0 and down. See you out there.

West north-west ensured both sides of the bay scored it today. Heard from the Sauntonians, that they were all dialled on 4.2's meanwhile we sailed on similar sizes also scoring blue skies, and much reduced swell. Just enough angle and surprisingly well groomed waves, that almost made me think; travelling away at this time of year is a real shame.

Tim Lawes kindly sent this in from his session on Christmas eve, meanwhile only a mile away, I was busy making mince pies and doing the final wrapping like a good dad : )

During the darkest hours of North Devon's darkest days, there is still a light that burns bright. Matt, Paul and myself just about made it to the ridge, only to be buffeted back by the wind which had now veered north north-westerly. Temperatures had also dropped to around 6 degrees but with windchill it felt more like sub zero. So as we huddled round debating whether to go out into the 3.3 m swell reading, a vote was called and we agreed a 'no sail'.
On these rare occasions, the only comfort, was to accept Paul's generous offer of a mince pie, with a whisky chaser.

Merry Christmas

and Thank you ! I had the most amazing feeling today, as Laura called me at work to say a rather large parcel had arrived. Out of the blue, a large 'longboard' shaped package was delivered to the house. Tris (from Homeblown) and the gang had decided to send me a rather beautiful hand finished Tris longboard, complete with Blue stringer and high gloss. Whilst it is an incredibly generous gift, it is the thought behind it that caught me off guard, and brings a small tear to my eye. I have always enjoyed my time with Homeblown, but it makes it all the more special, when you feel like someone appreciates your effort. Its been a couple of years since we first got together, and I am so glad to say that they now provide over 80% of surf blanks to the British surf industry. Tris thanks for giving me the opportunity, I am very proud to call you friends.

Despite a ridiculous forecast, and wave heights that seemed to have knackered the bouy readings, we managed to score a pretty fun session. Ok, we were pinned to the shoreline by the onshore winds but the sun definitely brought a smile or two out. In fact the only real challenge in the balmy temps (7 degrees) was the enormous tidal surge, which was so powerful it could actually kill all your board speed. That said, a 4.5 m Ezzy and the Wave cult 75 ltr managed to do the trick.