Saturday, 31 March 2012

Bumped into Randall at the coffee shop today, and this clip reminded me how skilled he is with board design and production. Hope he starts shaping again, his boards are like works of art.

Thursday, 29 March 2012

Bumped into Simon this evening who told me of a seriously bearded single fin surfer, lighting up the line up last night. After listening to a detailed description, I concluded it could only be the work of the rather talented Mr Jonathan Barratini.

Sunday, 25 March 2012

Just under a week to go, and fingers crossed we might have a new addition to the family. Managed to still play Dad despite stealing off for a lovely session in the blue skies and off shores. Wouldn't want to be anywhere else in the world today.

Glastonbury Tor Time-Lapse from John Morgan on Vimeo.
Quality from the talented Mr Morgan.

Saturday, 24 March 2012

22 celcius (early 70's F) in the backyard today, so I capitalised on all the things I was meant to do in the week, but had postponed because of surfing. After endless menial chores including 2 hours on the mower, I snuck out with a glass of wine, under the guise of letting bear out in the back field. Fortunately I had the camera, but what I wasn't expecting was the wave height to jump to triple on the pushing tide. It looked perfect, but my hands were tied and I drowned my sorrows over the heat of the BBQ.

Friday, 23 March 2012

Well at last I managed to break away from the mini simmons in small surf. The glass on keel fin has decided to detach itself from my rather lack lustre approach to laminating. So I was stuck with making the fish work today, which turned out to be a massive boost. The fish is really intended for this kind of surf, but I always like the extra lift from the mini simmons. Also the Rasta keel fins I have been using are a little loose, and to date I have been running some trailer fins as per the shapers suggestion. So armed with just the fish and the rasta keel fins, I was surprised at the ability to catch almost everything I went for, and the maneouvre-ability of the board. I am sure the sun helped as the wind was swinging side shore, and I couldn't help but think this is our summer.

Thursday, 22 March 2012

Wednesday, 21 March 2012

Tonight was special, and still light to just about 7.30 . Can't wait for what the early morning will bring, and might just be a touch late for work.

Monday, 19 March 2012

Don't seem to be getting the free time I once had, but killer running right now, deep into the sunsets. The change is fine though, it's stagnation and routine, I can't really handle. What did make me chuckle tonight is my long standing favourite blog site finally stole one of my images, and I feel honoured. Sadly this ain't no Tourmaline, this here is North Devon. Kind of makes me proud to have taken the original picture, and to think its not US West Coast(as quoted) its just little old England.


I don't really like big wave surfing. In fact at my age, stage and priorities in life, I don't think it will ever be an option. But I am totally fascinated by it, particularly when I see videos like this.

Thursday, 15 March 2012



Got down to the beach a little too late yesterday, only to see Dan catching some beautiful set waves in stunning blue skies and off shores. By the time I got home, Hector and I just checked out the back, and I asked him to score the sets coming through. I think this this was his favourite wave, as he thrust all ten fingers skyward. 

Sunday, 11 March 2012


This morning I was definitely chomping at the bit to reclaim my home spot again. Swell was small but I was fairly confident it would work. That was, until I realised, with the fog visibility was less than 50 meters. I couldn't even see the wave, standing directly in front on the beach. When I finally went in, the fog had lifted to almost seeing something break, so Henry and I paddled out back. Small but still fun, we scored a quick hour, but getting home through the mist was not so easy. Again we were totally disoriented, got washed up 200 meters down the beach, and then started walking in the total wrong direction. Eventually we found the car.

Saturday, 10 March 2012

The Aurora borealis returned again, but not so vibrant this evening. I can only really describe it like a sunset at the wrong time in the wrong direction, and continually moving, changing, almost pulsing.  

Friday, 9 March 2012


Keep your eyes open again tonight. Northern lights potentially making a second appearance. Last night was really quite magical.

Wednesday, 7 March 2012

West North Westerly 21-26knots
1-2 ft and blue blue skies
4.5 m Ezzy WP 2
RRD Hardcore Wave 75ltr
Good times

Saturday, 3 March 2012



Its been an amazing week, of leaving the car, and catching surprisingly mellow sessions on my home patch. I don't know when I have laughed and smiled so much and just feel exhausted from all the paddling. Massive thank you to Sharky, who I met last weekend. A few key words really lifted my confidence this week, and places I have struggled to come to terms with, have really opened up for my surfing.